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Sunday before Thanksgiving we hiked the Lighthouse Trail Palo Duro Canyon for the second time. We thought the trail would be pack, but there was only a family of four once we got to the Lighthouse formation. Pretty unusual for this famous trail!

Where is Lighthouse Trail Palo Duro Canyon?

Lighthouse Trail is the most popular trail in Palo Duro Canyon State Park. One of the most popular trails in the state of Texas as well. It is located in Canyon, around 30 minutes drive to the southeast of Amarillo. The address for the park is 11450 Park Road 5, Canyon, TX 79015.  

Amarillo itself is located in the Texas Panhandle. It is the biggest city in the Panhandle area and the 12th biggest city in the state of Texas.

When you drive from Dallas/Ft. Worth Metroplex, you will arrive after five to six hours driving time in Amarillo. When you fly, a little over an hour is what you need to get there from DFW Airport. From Albuquerque in New Mexico is about an hour faster than from Dallas/Ft. Worth Metroplex.

One fact about Palo Duro Canyon State Park that many people aren’t aware of: it is the second largest canyon in the country. Yes, right after the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona. It is about 120 miles long and 20 miles wide, and is up to 800 deep.

How to Hike the Lighthouse Trail Palo Duro Canyon

From the entrance follow the road all the way down to the canyon. When you see Old West Stables on the right, keep going. Then you will see Soapberry Day Use Area followed by Paseo del Rio Trail, also on the right side. The Lighthouse Trailhead is right after Paseo del Rio Trail, on the right side as well. You will see a medium-size parking space – for a state park standard – by the trailhead. Or, cars parked by the road when you arrive after 10 a.m.

Actually, there are two trailheads here. We always started at the one near the main road, and somehow always coming back through the other one.

Before you start the hike, go to the board that has a picture of the trails and a big thermometer above it. Take a picture of both the trail and the thermometer. That way you know where to go and can compare the temperature in the beginning and at the end of the hike. 

Down in the canyon the temperature changes faster. It was close to 40 when we started, and a little over 60 three and a half hours later. A beautiful day, I would say. When we went during Spring Break two years ago, it started around 60s and finished in the mid 80s. It was really warm! Fortunately there’s a snow cone truck waiting at the parking.

The Lighthouse Trail is 2.7 mile one-way and it rates moderate. I think it’s because of the steep part at the end of the trail. Other than that, it’s pretty much flat. Of course there are a bit up and down part here and there, but it’s not a big deal. Seriously! This trail is a great outing for a family.

When you read the park map, it will say 2 hours to finish the trail, but we made it almost 3.5 hours. We didn’t walk fast and I stopped a lot for pictures and took in the beauty of the rock formation along the trail. Big rocks amaze me a lot. I also spent some time on the Lighthouse formation. The view from the top is spectacular and you can’t stay for just a few minutes once you get there.

Surprisingly, there were less than 10 cars when we got to the parking. I guess some people went to church first, and others waited until it got warm a bit.

It was right at 9 a.m. when we started the hike. Our dog Snoopy was with us, and as always, he was happier being outside than in the house. When you plan to bring your dogs, make sure to keep them on leash all the time and pick up after them.

Like I mentioned above, the temperature was a little below 40 when we began the hike. I found it a bit chilly, but my son just put his hoodie around his waist, while my husband was comfortable in his shorts.

About 0.2 mile from the trailhead, you will be rewarded with the first stunning rock formation in the trail. If this is your first time, or the second time like me, you just have to stop to take pictures. My son is at the age where he doesn’t like to be in the picture, but I said this is Snoopy’s first time in the park. So he didn’t have a choice.

This rock formation continues for miles and it will be on your left hand side during the hike. You can see the beautiful colors of the geologic layers on it from the trail. You might be tempted to veer from the trail, but it’s wise to just stay on it. Later I will tell you what would happen if you decide to make your own path to the iconic Lighthouse formation.

On the right hand side you will see rocks formation in a distance, just like the one on the left. At one point, Given’s, Spicer, Lowry Trail connected to the Lighthouse Trail. It’s a 3.1 miles one-way trail, named after the avid runners who helped build the canyon’s trail system. From the information I read, this trail falls on a difficult category, offers a challenging workout but the scenery is amazing.

The Lighthouse Trail is clearly marked. It is sandy and almost no shade. So try to start early in the morning and bring plenty of water, especially when you hike in the summertime or in the afternoon. Heat-related injuries and deaths for people and pets occur on this trail. Never underestimate nature. Fortunately there are benches along the trail. Use it if you feel like you need a break.

You will cross at least a couple of washes before you get to the end. I haven’t found information about the condition of the wash during wet time though. All I can say, call the park prior your hike to the Lighthouse Trail in Palo Duro Canyon during the rainy season. The washes were dry both time we went there.

After almost an hour and a half hike, we arrived at the end of the trail. The picnic table and the bike racks were still there, but the end of trail sign disappeared. It’s now an open trail. Later we found out that it is a new way to the Lighthouse formation.

I climbed to the Lighthouse by myself and took a steep climb, the one we did two Spring Breaks ago. I remember I had to crawl and used both my hands to get to the top, and this time I still did the same. But faster, since nobody’s ahead of me. I checked my watch, and I did it around 5 minutes with a few stops for taking pictures.

A family with two elementary age daughters decided to take the new way after they saw the steep climb. From what I read, the new way is just less steep but longer.

Once at the top, you still have to walk and climb to the base of the Lighthouse formation about 2-3 minutes. I wanted to bring Snoopy with me, but I knew I couldn’t lift him to the base. He is too heavy for me. So he stayed at the picnic area with my husband and son.

It felt good once I arrived at the Lighthouse. Surprise, surprise… there’s only a family of four there. I walked to the other end where there’s another pillar that you can climb all the way to the top for a more amazing view. It’s a little dicey getting up since no foot holds. We climbed it the first time we went there, but this time I knew my limit. I was alone and I didn’t want to take a risk. It’s climb at your own risk area. There’s no park ranger around.

One other thing you need to know, most of the time the wind blows hard here. Be careful when you hike with the children. Remind them not to go to the edges.  

Then people started to arrive at the base. I checked my watch, it’s been 30 minutes since I set my foot here. It’s time to go back. From a distance I saw the family with two daughters. The father helped them climbing to the base. Seems like it wasn’t a good adventure for them. Both girls were crying and they didn’t even want to move after they hit the base. I don’t think they stayed for a minute there, but hey, they made it! 

A French family who arrived after them mesmerized by the majestic of the Lighthouse formation. They took turns taking pictures and non-stop talking while looking at the Lighthouse. I overheard another guy talking to another family that his friend who lives in Amarillo suggested him to arrive before sunrise. The sunrise view is spectacular! But he didn’t bring headlights or flashlights with him, so he couldn’t hike in the dark.

As always, hiking back was easier and faster. This time traffic started to build. Families, couples, young people, Boy Scouts, all of them were hiking toward the Lighthouse. When I got to 0.2 mile sign, a group of younger Girl Scouts was taking a break while munching on their snacks. I just hope they have enough snacks and drinks to take them to the end of the trail. They still had 2.5 miles to go, plus climbing to the Lighthouse.

Good thing I didn’t see people in their flip-flops like back in the Spring Break. Or, people who walked with music from their cell phone set to the highest volume, as if they’re the only ones on trail.

Hiking the Lighthouse Trail means you are sharing the trail with bikers and cross country runner, too. They normally shouted from afar when they were about to pass.

When we left around 1 p.m., parking was full and people were already parked their cars on the street.

Note For Visiting the Lighthouse Trail Palo Duro Canyon

• Start early in the morning. The temperature in the canyon can reach above 100 during summertime.
• Bring plenty of water.
• Stay on trail. My friend and her husband made their own path and ended up hiking more than six hours, one-way, to the Lighthouse. I don’t even know if you are actually allowed to do that.
• Dress accordingly.
• There’s a possibility your little children won’t make the steep climb.
• You have to reconsider the hike to the Lighthouse if you are afraid of heights.
• When hiking with your dogs, don’t forget to pick up after them.
• Take a break when you need one. Use the benches.

Other Hiking Trails in Palo Duro Canyon State Park

Here are some of the hiking trails that you can also check while at the park:

1. CCC Trail, 1.4 mi. (one-way), 1.5 hour, difficult, cross four historic CCC bridges as you descend 500 feet through four geologic layers from the canyon rim to the canyon floor.
2. JUNIPER/RIVERSIDE, 1.1 mi. (one-way), 1 hour, moderate, watch for the colorful Spanish Skirts rock formations along this flat tail beside the river.
3. SUNFLOWER, 1.2 mi. (one-way), 1 hour, easy, watch for beautiful veins of white satin-spar gypsum about a quarter-mile past the trailhead on this shady, family-friendly trail.
4. RYLANDER FORTRESS CLIFF, 3.7 mi. (one-way), 3 hours, easy, has the most beautiful view of the park, but only accessible from the Rock Garden Trail.  
5. ROCK GARDEN, 2.4 mi. (one-way), 2.5 hours, difficult, climb 600 feet from a field of boulders at the canyon floor to Rylander Fortress Cliff along the canyon’s rim. 

Where to Stay in the Park

Palo Duro Canyon State Park has campsites and cabins available for its visitors. The thing is, this park is so popular and it’s hard to get a site when you are walk-in visitors. Not to mention the new reservation system in Texas State Park where visitors can reserve a site 5 months in advance. There are people who booked a site but never showed up.

We couldn’t get a site here when we visited during Spring Break. It’s one of their busiest seasons. But we could stay in the group campsite when we visited in early summer with the Boy Scout group. If you want to camp here, you must plan your trip accordingly.

The campsites with electricity have restroom and shower in each ground. You must walk or ride your car for restroom and shower when you stay in a campsite with water only, primitive, or group site.

Cabins in the park are nice. Each cabin has A/C unit and heater, microwave and fridge, and restrooms with showers. Only Cow Camp Cabins don’t have restrooms and showers.

If you plan to stay in one of their campsites or cabins, go check the park’s website. The latest information they posted on their website is, all cabins are scheduled to be closed from Jan. 1, 2020 to February 2020.

When you plan hiking the Lighthouse Trail Palo Duro Canyon, which I think you should, I hope this article will help you in making the itinerary of your visit to the Texas Panhandle. If you’ve been hiking here, I want to hear about your experience by leaving a comment below.

One more thing. While staying in the park, I suggest you make a day trip to Caprock Canyons State Park. Another reddish canyon where bison roam the plain freely. Just 1.5 hours drive to the southeast.