3 Days in Big Bend National Park (incl. Terlingua + Big Bend Ranch SP)

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Some will say 3 days in Big Bend National Park is enough, and some will say not. For me, it depends on the season you are visiting. Are you visiting Big Bend during high season or low season? Is it during school break, holidays weekend, or during the week?

When we visited Big Bend, we planned for a 4 days visit, excluding the one day drive  to the park. It was during Spring Break, one of their busiest times of year. I read it would be hard to find parking spots around places of interest in the park. So, we had to be flexible with our itinerary in Big Bend, and there’s a possibility we couldn’t do everything that we have planned.

At the end, we had to cut our visit to Big Bend National Park to 3 days. It was March 2020, when pandemic started to kick in to North Texas. Before we left, a couple of friends questioned our decision, but we decided to go after looking at the pandemic stat. Also, Big Bend NP was still open and there’s no restrictions yet. If we had to go home in the middle of the trip, then we would leave immediately.

Big Bend National Park 3 Days Itinerary

After a long drive from Fort Worth to Big Bend, we finally arrived at the destination in the late afternoon. We only stopped for lunch and gas, and it still took us about 9 hours to get to Terlingua.

As we didn’t plan ahead of time for this trip, we didn’t get a campsite inside Big Bend NP. Well, there were primitive campsites available but I prefer sites with water. So, we camped in Terlingua, the closest town to Big Bend after Study Butte.

Before I go into our itinerary, let me give you a brief info on Big Bend NP.

Big Bend National Park occupies the land in far southwest Texas. Rio Grande flows in the park, separating the park with Mexico. There are three distinct areas in the park: desert, river, and mountains. Most of the points of interests are located far from each other. Big Bend is huge, it takes time to go from one place to another place.

The following itinerary is best for people who stay in Terlingua. If you get to stay inside the park, especially at the Chisos Mountains, it’s even better. You will have a flexible time to do the activities in the itinerary. You might change the day you want to do the activities, or you might add one or two more of your things to do in Big Bend.

Day 1: Big Bend National Park

Places visited:

– Santa Elena Canyon

– Scenic overlooks and exhibits along Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

– Panther Junction Visitor Center

– Rio Grande Village

– Hot Springs

– Terlingua Ghost Town

Driving times (approximately):

– Terlingua – Santa Elena Canyon: 1h 15m

– Santa Elena Canyon – Panther Junction Visitor Center: 1h

– Panther Junction Visitor Center – Rio Grande Village: 30m

– Rio Grande Village – Hot Springs: 20m

– Hot Springs – Terlingua Ghost Town: 1h 15m

SANTA ELENA CANYON

Our first destination in the park was Santa Elena Canyon. It’s a must-do if you only visit Big Bend for one day.

You will drive on Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to get there, and the destination is at the end of road.

When you go, drive straight, don’t make any stops. You will be tempted to make several stops because of the scenic views, but you want to arrive at Santa Elena Canyon as early as you can. This place is very popular in the park and parking is limited. Try to arrive before 9 a.m. or you might have to wait in line to get a parking spot when you are visiting during high season.

Here you must do the Santa Elena Canyon Trail, a moderate 1.7 miles round trip trail. The trail will lead you into the mouth of stunning Santa Elena Canyon. After you cross a creek, you will ascend on paved steps, then descend back to the water’s edge until the canyon walls meet the water. It is really a beautiful trail!

I saw children swimming at the end of the trail, but I suggest you ask the park ranger when you plan the same thing. This is also one of the starting points of kayaking into the Rio Grande.

ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE

Here are some stops that you can make on the way back to the main road. Dorgan House Trail, Castolon Visitor Center, Tuff Canyon, Mule Ears Viewpoint, and Sotol Vista. All located along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.

When you leave the canyon you will see a sign to Santa Elena Canyon viewpoint. Just ignore it because you already walk in the canyon itself.

At Dorgan House Trail we didn’t do the trail. We just looked around the ruins.

Back in May 2019, a wildfire damaged the Castolon Historic buildings that were built 100 years ago. As a result, the park put what’s left from the fire in a temporary visitor center. Not much to see though.

Tuff Canyon is an easy 0.75 round trip trail that will take you down to the canyon. However, we only walked to the overlook where our dog Snoopy could walk, too.

Mule Ears and Sotol Vista are other quick stops that will give you beautiful views. They are pet-friendly as well.

Another stopped we did here was between Castolon Historic Visitor Center and Tuff Canyon. The rock formation reminded me of Badlands National Park that we got to visit on our road trip to South Dakota in the summer of 2019.                      

PANTHER JUNCTION VISITOR CENTER

Next stop is Panther Junction Visitor Center. You won’t only get full info of the park from the exhibitions and the rangers, but there’s a movie about the park in the theater that you must watch. Also, there’s a WiFi service at this visitor center and the connection was great during our visit.

The only gas station that carries groceries in the park is located next to Panther Junction.

RIO GRANDE VILLAGE

On our way to Rio Grande Village, we made a quick turn to Dugout Wells. It’s a small green area in the desert, but it’s a desert green. You can skip this spot.

Hiking the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail was what we did at the Rio Grande Village area. It’s an easy 0.75 mile loop that will take you to a hill with panoramic views of the Rio Grande, the Chisos and Del Carmen Mountains, and Boquillas, a tiny village in Mexico. It’s best for sunset, but if you don’t stay in the village, you can visit it during the day. This is a spring-fed wetland area, so it’s a different sight to see in the park. Parking will be across a campsite and not too spacious.

HOT SPRINGS

While on this side of the park, go to the hot springs. From the main road you will drive about two miles on a rough, narrow, gravel road until you get to the trailhead. Then continue on foot for about 0.5 mile to the hot springs, walking past the palm trees.

This is the only hot springs in the park, and there’s only ONE ‘hot tub’ for people to enjoy the 105 degrees Fahrenheit water.

It is also a popular destination. As a result, we couldn’t climb into the tub when we got there. There were too many people that I couldn’t even put my toes in there. So, if you are visiting during high season, you better think twice about stopping here.

TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN

End your exploration for the first day in Terlingua Ghost Town. Visit the cemetery and other ruins, and have supper at the Starlight Theater.

We didn’t get to eat at the Starlight Theater. The restaurant was packed. It was Spring Break anyway. So we just drove around and walked through the cemetery.

If you are visiting during the low season, you will get a chance to visit the famous Starlight Theater.

Day 2: Big Bend Ranch State Park & Big Bend NP

Places visited:

– Barton Warnock Visitor Center

– Lajitas

– El Camino Del Rio (the River Road)

– Closed Canyon Trail

– Hoodoo Trail

– Fort Leaton State Historic Site

– Balanced Rock

Driving times (approximately):

– Terlingua – Barton Warnock Visitor Center: 15m

– Barton Warnock Visitor Center – Lajitas: 5m

– Lajitas – Closed Canyon Trail: 35m

– Closed Canyon Trail – Hoodoo Trail: 7m

– Hoodoo Trail – Fort Leaton State Historic Site: 30m

– Fort Leaton Historic Site – Balanced Rock: 2h 30m

A lot of people didn’t think about visiting Big Bend Ranch State Park when they were in Big Bend. It was a big mistake!

Big Bend Ranch has spectacular views! Some people said they like it here more than in the Big Bend National Park. Moreover, dogs are welcome on trails in Big Bend Ranch SP.

You will drive on one of the best scenic routes in Texas, the El Camino Del Rio (the River Road). The road is following the twists and turns of the Rio Grande that separated the US and Mexico.

BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER

Your trip will begin at the Barton Warnock Visitors Center. Take a self-guided tour through the Interpretive Center, learn about the archeological, historical, and natural history profile of the Big Bend region. Too bad they closed the Interpretive Center when we were there due to pandemic.

This is also a place for you to obtain permits for backpacking and camping. You can also purchase river-use permits and licenses, as well as passes for the park.

LAJITAS

A few miles later you will arrive in Lajitas. There’s a golf resort here where you can stop for snacks, shops, or just a restroom break.

If your car is low in gas, this is the last place to fill in the tank. There’s no service station in the park until you get to Presidio.

EL CAMINO DEL RIO (THE RIVER ROAD)

After you leave Lajitas, the spectacular views will accompany you for miles. You will start driving on the El Camino Del Rio (the River Road.) In the spring bluebonnets will bloom along the road. You will want to make a lot of stops, but make sure you don’t forget to stop at the hoodoos and the Teepee Rio Grande Overlook on the left.

Then you will climb the steepest road in Texas where you will find a small parking on the left once you get to the top. Stop and enjoy the incredible views of the mountains and the Rio Grande.

CLOSED CANYON TRAIL

Your next stop is the Closed Canyon Trail where you will hike the 1.4 miles round trip trail along the slot canyon. You will hike along a shaded canyon and it is absolutely fun!

Dogs are allowed on this trail and they will enjoy it as much as you do.

HOODOO TRAIL

Another stop in the park is Hoodoo Trail. A 1.1 mile loop trail where you can hike to the hoodoos and the Rio Grande. But this one is on an open ground. A dog friendly trail as well.

A few miles from here the spectacular view turns to a desert view. Then you will exit the park to the town of Presidio, which is also the border town to Mexico.

FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE

Started as a private residence dating back to the early 19th century, Benjamin Leaton turned this adobe into a fortress after he purchased the property in 1848. You can do a self-guided tour or join a ranger-led tour at this site.

It was near 2.30 p.m. when we got to Presidio, so we decided to have lunch first then stop at the fort on the way back to Terlingua. When we arrived back at the fort, a ranger was outside posting an announcement at the billboard. Apparently they just got a call from the headquarter that they needed to close the facility because of the pandemic. What? Gone was our opportunity to visit the fort. We don’t know when or whether we will go back to that direction again.

BALANCED ROCK

A long drive to the park for a short hike. The Grapevine Hills Trail in Big Bend NP will lead you to a group of balanced rocks at the end of trail. It’s an easy 2.2 miles round trip where at the last quarter the trail turns to a steep climb. It’s so beautiful up there. For me the hardest part was the 6 miles drive on an improved dirt road to get to the trailhead.

Day 3: Big Bend National Park & Alpine/Marfa

Places visited:

– Lost Mine Trail

– Window View Trail

– Fossil Discovery Exhibit

– Alpine/Marfa

Driving times (approximately):

– Terlingua – Chisos Mountains: 1h

– Chisos Mountains – Fossil Discovery Exhibit: 30m

– Fossil Discovery Exhibit – Alpine: 1h 30m

On your last day in Big Bend, you will make a visit to Chisos Mountains and leave the park through Persimmon Gap. It will take you to Marathon where you will continue to Alpine and Marfa.

LOST MINE TRAIL

Chisos Mountains has some of the most beautiful hikes in the park. When you have to choose one, Lost Mine Trail is the one. It’s a moderate 4.8 miles round trip that will introduce you to the flora and fauna of the Chisos Mountains.

It starts with an easy path for about a mile, where a saddle offers incredible views of Casa Grande and Juniper Canyon. If you don’t have extra time, you can turn around and go back to your car. Or, you will climb steeply in and out of juniper, oak, and pine forest for the rest of the trail.

The same big problem is the parking. It fills up quickly. We didn’t get to do this trail because of this.

WINDOW VIEW TRAIL

Right behind Chisos Basin Visitor Center, walk this easy 0.3 loop. You will be amazed by the beauty of the mountain peaks surrounding the Chisos Basin, and a view through the window. This is also a paved wheelchair accessible trail, but dogs are not allowed.

After driving around the parking lot several times, we finally got a parking space. If you stay in the lodge or campground in the Chisos Basin, you won’t have a problem with parking. You can walk from your accommodation to these places.

FOSSIL DISCOVERY EXHIBIT

On the way out, stop at Fossil Discovery Exhibit. This neat exhibit will expose you to the changes of plants and animals that call Big Bend their home, through 130 million years of geologic time.

ALPINE/MARFA

Because you only drive through Alpine and Marfa on your way home, you will only see the murals and some famous structures that include Giant Marfa and Prada Marfa.

Depending on the time, you can drive straight home or spend a night somewhere between the Big Bend region and your home or next destination.

WHERE TO STAY IN BIG BEND

When you plan a trip to Big Bend, reserve a room or a campsite ahead of time. I would say Chisos Basin is where you want to stay.

The only lodge in the park – the Chisos Mountains Lodge – is where you want to stay if you don’t like camping. It offers a variety of rooms and cottages, a gift shop, camper store, and a dining room. It is open year round and rooms fill up quickly.

As for the campground, there are 60 sites available (no hook-ups.) It has flush toilets, running water, grills, picnic tables, and a dump station. 40 of those sites are reservable year-round. Trailers over 20’ and RVs over 24’ are not recommended due to narrow, winding roads to the Basin and small campsites at this campground. Generators can be used in specific sites from 8-11 am and 5-8 pm.

If you drive a longer trailer or RV, Rio Grande Village is the place for you. It has 25 sites with full hook-ups besides 100 sites for tent campers. The tent campground equipe with flush toilets, running water, picnic tables, grills, and some overhead shelters. Dump station is nearby and generators can be used in specific sites from 8 am to 8 pm.

Another campground is Cottonwood, located between Castolon Historic District and Santa Elena Canyon. There are 24 sites (no hook-ups) with pit toilets, picnic tables, grills, and water. No dump station and no generators allowed. It’s dry camping in a remote area.

Like I mentioned in the beginning, it was less than a month when we decided to go to Big Bend in March (Spring Break.) As a result, we didn’t get a room or a campsite in the park. Our choice was to stay in Study Butte or Terlingua, the closest towns to the park. After searching around, we found a site at Big Bend Resort & Adventures. It has hot showers, pet-friendly, and offers free WiFi as well.

Camping in Terlingua

It was hot and dusty by the time we got to Terlingua. The campground was dry and the dirt was as hard as a rock. Setting up a tent wasn’t easy. We had to pour water to the ground so we could push the stake down with a hammer. Not to mention the temperature was in the lower 90s and we were in a desert.

When our tent was finally up, we were too tired to cook supper. We drove to the nearest restaurant that got a five star from a well-known Texas blogger and several others. Well, the food was only good, nothing special like in the reviews. Also, the service was slow, and I don’t think they care enough because visitors don’t have too many choices in Terlingua.

The restaurant wasn’t pet friendly either. We didn’t want to leave Snoopy in the car with all the windows open because it was too hot. So our son preferred to stay in the car with Snoopy.

A couple of college students who had to leave their dog in the back of the truck had to go back and forth to check on the dog. We talked a bit and they said they wish they knew that dogs aren’t allowed on trails in Big Bend. It made their exploration in the park limited to the overlook and on the road sides. We knew about it, so we already prepared ourselves for visiting Big Bend with Snoopy.

During our visit there’s one shower stall in the women’s room with a problem. You couldn’t control the hot water flow. It came out really hot. Toilets were fine and apparently people who came in RVs also liked to use the toilets.

Too bad the WiFi wasn’t that good. You must stand closer to the office and there were too many people using it at the same time.

Night sky was supposed to be amazing, but it was cloudy the whole time we were there. It was hot during the day so you don’t want to spend time around the campground. Overnight weather was nice though.

One other thing for you who will visit with your dog. You hardly find grass around the campground. If your dog doesn’t use doing his thing on the dirt, then Houston, you will have a problem!